日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司2020-07-14 评论关于 996 ℃
野村寿司位于仁爱圆环附近的小巷子里，静谧地等待着食客的光临。这间仅有 12 张座席的寿司吧才开张一个月，而撑起整个场面的是野村裕二，一位看似年轻，却已有15年的料理资历的寿司师傅。我对台北不算太熟悉，
Behind the Ren Ai circle and very close to the stylish a poet, Nomura Sushi quietly sits. Opened just a month ago, this 12-seat sushi bar is headed up by Nomura Yuji 野村裕二, a young but experienced sushi chef who has been in the trade for over 15 years. I’m not too familiar with the dining scene in Taipei, but apparently Nomura-san has quite a loyal following from his days at the wildly popular “No Sushi 野寿司”. Well then, let’s take a look at he’s got.
A half-opened wooden gate beckons passerby, but as Nomura Sushi is almost always fully booked, you won’t have much luck as a walk-in guest. Reservations highly recommended.
Upon entering, we were seated at a plain, spotlessly clean sushi bar built from pristine wood. Warm lighting,Ono Lisa in the air, hot tea, warm towels…instant good feeling.
野村寿司的晚餐从 2500 台币起跳。相较之下，
While dinner at Nomura costs at least 2500 NTD (and up to 3300+ NTD depending on what you order), lunch is an excellent deal at only 1200 NTD.
Appetizer: grated daikon with dried baby fish
回溯日本江户时代，沿街贩卖寿司的寿司师傅们在没有冷冻设备的情况下，会先将鱼料预先处理 －或炖煮、或腌渍 －以延长鱼料的保存时间。野村寿司提供的正是这种江户前寿司。
Nomura-san serves Edomae sushi (江户前寿司), which, if simply put, is characterized by the use of pre-seasoned fish. Back in the days, sushi were sold on streets by stands when there were no refrigerators, and in order to achieve a longer shelf life, the fish were simmered in broth, immersed in soy sauce, or cured with salt and vinegar. For more details, click here.
The royal procession of Edomae sushi commenced with kinmedai 金目鲷 (golden eye seabream). I’ve only had it 炙り(aburi, or partially grilled), and was delighted to find its clean, sweet taste when left unadorned with the exception of a brushstroke of soy sauce.
Kohada 小肌 (a type of herring) made quite an impression. The fish itself was fairly strong with a piquant smack of vinegar, but was nicely balanced by a sprinkle of yuzu peel. Like.
Next up, a piece of hirame 比目鱼 (fluke/summer flounder).
Otoro 大トロ (fatty tuna), the all-time crowd-pleaser, needs no further introduction. I did find it interesting that Nomura-san made careful incisions on the fish, presumably to let the soy sauce really sink in – something I had not seen before.
Then, a sweet and sticky shiroebi 白虾 (white shrimp) topped with shiso leaf.
Tekkamaki 鉄火巻き (tuna roll), not my usual favorite.
Following that, a big and crunchy piece of aoyagi 青柳 (round clam) made a satisfying mouthful.
I don’t remember much about the akamutsu 赤むつ (deep sea grouper) other than its very soft flesh.
What blew me away, surprisingly, was a tiny bowl of warm sushi rice topped with fresh ikura いくら. I’m used to eating the marinated, overly salty kind, and was quite enamored with this glistening heap of fresh salmon roe, each a little pop of flavor burst.
Uni 海胆 (sea urchin), generously piled up in a 军舰巻き (gunkanmaki). No need to say more.
河童卷 (小黄瓜卷) 包着小黄瓜丝、
Kappamaki カッパ巻き (cucumber roll) with thin slices of cucumber, a bit of shiso and unknown white fish.
An extra mixed fish gunkanmaki topped with fresh scallions and sliced ginger, courtesy of Nomura-san.
Mixed fish gunkanmaki
Lastly, a meticulously prepared anago 穴子 (conger eel). Tender, fluffy.
A bowl of miso soup, naturally sweet from thoroughly cooked shrimps.
The meal ended with a simple housemade bean curd with brown sugar.
Bean curd with brown sugar
A few more words on Nomura-san. He may seem quiet at first, but if you engage him, he will tell you everything he can about what you are eating. The catch – he can’t communicate much in Chinese and English, so this will only work for those who can speak Japanese.
Nomura-san at work
Nomura-san showed us bottles of artisanal soy sauce his team procured from 小豆岛 (Shodoshima), just one of the many examples of how he attempts to carefully select everything used in the restaurant. If you have seen episodes of どっちの料理ショー (one of my all time favorite TV shows), it won’t be difficult for you to conjure up images of obsessed men roaming the globe in order to find the single most premium ingredient for a particular dish.
Nomura-san also showed us some ingredients he will use for dinner. Given that dinner sets are way pricier than lunch sets, I’m guessing he saves the real good stuff till after dark. I will have to find out on another trip to Taipei.
What's for dinner?
虽然我在离开野村寿司时，没有如我离开上海的 Sushi Oyama 那幺感动，不过想想…Sushi Oyama 一餐是800元人民币 (3600台币) 的价位，
hough I did not leave Nomura Sushi in the same blissful state as I left Sushi Oyama, I reminded myself that a meal there would’ve costed at least 800 RMB (3600 NTD), whereas our lunch at Nomura was only 1200 NTD. Value for money? Absolutely.
营业时间：12:00~2:00pm, 6:00pm~9:00pm (週一休)
价位：[午餐] 1200 NTD/套, [晚餐] 2500~3300+ NTD/套
本文转载自 Sugared & Spiced