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日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司

2020-07-14 评论关于 996 ℃
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野村寿司位于仁爱圆环附近的小巷子里,静谧地等待着食客的光临。这间仅有 12 张座席的寿司吧才开张一个月,而撑起整个场面的是野村裕二,一位看似年轻,却已有15年的料理资历的寿司师傅。我对台北不算太熟悉,却知道野村师傅有一大票忠实顾客,自他任职于「野寿司」时期就开始追随他了。到底是什幺样的手艺能如此吸引人呢?午餐时间,我们去瞧瞧。

 

Behind the Ren Ai circle and very close to the stylish a poet, Nomura Sushi quietly sits. Opened just a month ago, this 12-seat sushi bar is headed up by Nomura Yuji 野村裕二, a young but experienced sushi chef who has been in the trade for over 15 years. I’m not too familiar with the dining scene in Taipei, but apparently Nomura-san has quite a loyal following from his days at the wildly popular “No Sushi 野寿司”. Well then, let’s take a look at he’s got.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
野村寿司
Nomura

 

 

野村寿司半掩的木门,似乎招着手请路人进去一探究竟。不过你如果真的是路过进去,估计是坐不到位子的-还是事前预约吧。

 

A half-opened wooden gate beckons passerby, but as Nomura Sushi is almost always fully booked, you won’t have much luck as a walk-in guest. Reservations highly recommended.

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
木门
Wooden Gate

 

 

我们被领到一排由原木所打造的平坦简洁的寿司吧前。温暖的灯光,小野丽莎轻柔的歌声,热茶,热手巾,一切都令人感到愉悦。

 

Upon entering, we were seated at a plain, spotlessly clean sushi bar built from pristine wood. Warm lighting,Ono Lisa in the air, hot tea, warm towels…instant good feeling.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
寿司吧台
Sushi Bar

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
寿司吧台
Sushi Bar

 

 

野村寿司的晚餐从 2500 台币起跳。相较之下,订价 1200 台币的午间套餐实在是非常划算。

 

While dinner at Nomura costs at least 2500 NTD (and up to 3300+ NTD depending on what you order), lunch is an excellent deal at only 1200 NTD.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
开胃菜:细切萝蔔佐吻仔鱼
Appetizer: grated daikon with dried baby fish

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
清爽的腌萝蔔
Marinated daikon

 

 

回溯日本江户时代,沿街贩卖寿司的寿司师傅们在没有冷冻设备的情况下,会先将鱼料预先处理 -或炖煮、或腌渍 -以延长鱼料的保存时间。野村寿司提供的正是这种江户前寿司。

 

Nomura-san serves Edomae sushi (江户前寿司), which, if simply put, is characterized by the use of pre-seasoned fish. Back in the days, sushi were sold on streets by stands when there were no refrigerators, and in order to achieve a longer shelf life, the fish were simmered in broth, immersed in soy sauce, or cured with salt and vinegar. For more details, click here.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
野村裕二
Nomura Yuji

 

 

我们当日的寿司飨宴由一贯金目鲷握寿司揭开序幕。我之前尝过的金目鲷都是以微炙的方法呈现,而野村师傅则仅仅刷上一抹酱油而已。这种单纯的料理手法,很新鲜,很纯粹的展现了金目鲷的原始滋味。

 

The royal procession of Edomae sushi commenced with kinmedai 金目鲷 (golden eye seabream). I’ve only had it 炙り(aburi, or partially grilled), and was delighted to find its clean, sweet taste when left unadorned with the exception of a brushstroke of soy sauce.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
金目鲷
Kinmedai

 

 

鰶鱼(小肌)的鱼肉经过腌製后带着强烈而开胃的醋味,上面洒上的柚子皮屑则完美平衡了整体风味,让人印象深刻。

 

Kohada 小肌 (a type of herring) made quite an impression. The fish itself was fairly strong with a piquant smack of vinegar, but was nicely balanced by a sprinkle of yuzu peel. Like.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
小肌
Kohada

 

 

比目鱼。

 

Next up, a piece of hirame 比目鱼 (fluke/summer flounder).

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
比目鱼
Hirame

 

 

鲔鱼大腹肉,这个永远令人陶醉的食材,应该不需要多作介绍了吧?值得一提的是野村师傅在鱼面上画上了细细几刀,使酱油能够充分融入鱼肉中,这种料理手法是我之前未见过的。

 

Otoro 大トロ (fatty tuna), the all-time crowd-pleaser, needs no further introduction. I did find it interesting that Nomura-san made careful incisions on the fish, presumably to let the soy sauce really sink in – something I had not seen before.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
大トロ
Otoro

 

 

接下来是盖着紫苏叶,鲜甜又黏滑的白虾。

 

Then, a sweet and sticky shiroebi 白虾 (white shrimp) topped with shiso leaf.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
白虾
Shiroebi

 

 

铁火卷 (鲔鱼卷)。

 

Tekkamaki 鉄火巻き (tuna roll), not my usual favorite.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
鉄火巻き
Tekkamaki

 

 

接着来的是爽脆的青柳贝, 相当令人满意的口感。

 

Following that, a big and crunchy piece of aoyagi 青柳 (round clam) made a satisfying mouthful.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
青柳
Aoyagi

 

 

赤鯥,除了它口感非常柔软外,没有太多印象。

 

I don’t remember much about the akamutsu 赤むつ (deep sea grouper) other than its very soft flesh.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
赤鯥
Akamutsu

 

 

出乎意料之外,最让我惊艳的居然是这一碗迷你鲑鱼卵丼。一般吃到的鲑鱼卵大都是经过腌渍,有点过鹹的版本,而野村的新鲜鲑鱼卵未经调味,每一口都爆出天然的鲜美滋味。配着温热的醋饭,实在让我觉得一小碗不过瘾。

 

What blew me away, surprisingly, was a tiny bowl of warm sushi rice topped with fresh ikura いくら. I’m used to eating the marinated, overly salty kind, and was quite enamored with this glistening heap of fresh salmon roe, each a little pop of flavor burst.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
鲑鱼卵
Ikura

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
鲑鱼卵
Ikura

 

 

军舰卷上堆满慷慨份量的海胆,不用多说了。

 

Uni 海胆 (sea urchin), generously piled up in a 军舰巻き (gunkanmaki). No need to say more.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
海胆军舰卷
Uni

 

 

河童卷 (小黄瓜卷) 包着小黄瓜丝、一点紫苏以及不知道名称的白鱼,很清爽。

 

Kappamaki カッパ巻き (cucumber roll) with thin slices of cucumber, a bit of shiso and unknown white fish.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
河童卷
Kappamaki

 

 

野村师傅招待的综合鱼料伴青葱姜末军舰卷。

 

An extra mixed fish gunkanmaki topped with fresh scallions and sliced ginger, courtesy of Nomura-san.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
军舰巻
Mixed fish gunkanmaki

 

 

最后是柔嫩、鬆软的星鳗。

 

Lastly, a meticulously prepared anago 穴子 (conger eel). Tender, fluffy.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
星鳗
Anago

 

 

这碗味增汤,看似简单,却富含虾子的鲜味。

 

A bowl of miso soup, naturally sweet from thoroughly cooked shrimps.

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
味增汤
Miso soup

 

 

餐后甜点是手工黑糖豆花。

 

The meal ended with a simple housemade bean curd with brown sugar.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
手工黑糖豆花
Bean curd with brown sugar

 

 

野村师傅给人的第一印象或许很安静,但一聊开,他就会详细地介绍你所吃的每一道料理。遗憾的是野村师傅不太会说中文或英文,所以只有会说日文的人才能享有这种服务了。

 

A few more words on Nomura-san. He may seem quiet at first, but if you engage him, he will tell you everything he can about what you are eating. The catch – he can’t communicate much in Chinese and English, so this will only work for those who can speak Japanese.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
野村师傅
Nomura-san at work

 

 

餐后,野村师傅向我们展示了他和餐厅老闆们特别日本小豆岛带回来了特选酱油。这种为了找到完美食材而不惜踏遍各地的努力精神,让我想起了料理东西军…:)

 

Nomura-san showed us bottles of artisanal soy sauce his team procured from 小豆岛 (Shodoshima), just one of the many examples of how he attempts to carefully select everything used in the restaurant. If you have seen episodes of どっちの料理ショー (one of my all time favorite TV shows), it won’t be difficult for you to conjure up images of obsessed men roaming the globe in order to find the single most premium ingredient for a particular dish.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
小豆岛酱油
 Soy Sauce

 

 

野村师傅也向我们展示了一些他为晚餐所準备的高级食材,看样子我得在下次去台北的时候才有机会嚐到了。

 

Nomura-san also showed us some ingredients he will use for dinner. Given that dinner sets are way pricier than lunch sets, I’m guessing he saves the real good stuff till after dark. I will have to find out on another trip to Taipei.

 

 

日本江户时代之味 台北 野村寿司
晚餐食材
What's for dinner?

 

 

虽然我在离开野村寿司时,没有如我离开上海的 Sushi Oyama 那幺感动,不过想想…Sushi Oyama 一餐是800元人民币 (3600台币) 的价位,而我们这次在野村寿司享用的午间套餐仅是 1200 台币…哪个性价比高呢?很明显了吧。

 

hough I did not leave Nomura Sushi in the same blissful state as I left Sushi Oyama, I reminded myself that a meal there would’ve costed at least 800 RMB (3600 NTD), whereas our lunch at Nomura was only 1200 NTD. Value for money? Absolutely.

 

 

野村寿司

地址:台北市安和路一段78巷34号

电话:02-2755-6587

营业时间:12:00~2:00pm, 6:00pm~9:00pm (週一休)

价位:[午餐] 1200 NTD/套, [晚餐] 2500~3300+ NTD/套

造访日期:2011-10-04

 

 

本文转载自 Sugared & Spiced